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Dining Diaries XX


ɹəuəllıʍ ʇɐb
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Young chef Masato Hirai has acquired quite a following since opening Dal Matto in Nishi Azabu, and now he has just opened an equal-named branch in Ebisu. The procedure is the same: once comfortably seated with an aperitif, Mr. Hirai steps to the table and inquires about our preferences and possible incompatibilities. He then returns to the kitchen and creates a multi-course menu (¥5,250) with the day’s best and freshest ingredients. On our recent visit, the menu opened with a cold clam soup that was colored purple by kinjiso, and tempura of four different Japanese spring vegetables, accompanied with freshly baked focaccia and three different olive oils. Next saw a carpaccio of tachiuo (cutlassfish) on steamed moroheya greens, but Hirai has no qualms to grill the fish if someone is squeamish about raw fish. A delicate vegetable terrine with sweet bell-pepper purée, or alternatively house-cured ham with various green vegetables concluded the appetizers. Cold capellini with an okra, yam and tomato sauce was served as a surprise pasta dish, followed by grilled matsuzaka beef with a reduction of balsamico vinegar and Segafredo coffee beans! An alternative vegetarian main dish was a slice of grilled makomodake with an assortment of garden-fresh vegetables. Tomato-basil spaghetti rounded off the meal, although some of us had secretly hoped for Hirai-san’s signature pasta dish: the incomparable tripe-tomato penne. For coffee and cigarettes (and dolci) one moves upstairs, where a couple of coffee tables and comfortable chairs are placed, while old Italian movies are projected to the wall. Bottled wines are a bit steep (from ¥5,800), but an all-you-can-drink house wine is available for ¥1,500 a person (only in the main dining room).

  • kinjiso: is a traditional vegetable in Ishikawa prefecture with a deep purple color.
  • tachiuo: cutlass fish, also called scabbard fish.
  • makomodake: some kind of Japanese mushroom, but some people say it's not really a mushroom. No clarification from Google either...

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