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Dining Diaries IV


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We met him first as a waiter at Delizioso in Ebisu, and later as the manager at sister restaurant Vacanza. Now Igarashi-san has his own little trattoria Eternita (03-5716-3776) near Futako-Tamagawa station. It is a small, very casual place, but the food quality is excellent, while the prices are extremely reasonable. The menu has a full page of appetizers, all of it very fresh - the marinated sardines were delightful! Some 12 different pasta and risotto dishes - I rarely had any better gnocchi in Japan - and about 10 grilled meat and fishes on the main. Small but good wine selection from ¥3,200.


Owner/chef Jean-Luc Commeau of Canard (03-3200-0706; www.jlcjapon.com) in Shinjuku has recently cooked a 5-course menu on TV Asahi, with the theme “celery”. The hottest item in that course was probably the dessert: a celery-eggplant tart. It has caused so much interest that he has added this dessert to Canard’s spring menu. Canard’s basic dinner course is still ¥2,800; same as when it opened 10 years ago. This, and now the celery tart, are both good reasons for a visit when in the area.


French bistro/café Minocitta (03-3449-7759) has recently moved from Ebisu to Hiroo shotengai. Its casual atmosphere and curious mix of French and Japanese home cooking menu (sardine & spring onion terrine, cinnamon-apple-cheese gratin, octopus wieners, cabbage spaghetti, yaki-soba, hamburg steak gratin, to name just a few) welcomes single diners, couples, and small groups alike. Even dogs with their owners are allowed on the open terrace. Although the menu is in Japanese only, on our first visit there were mostly foreigners of all nationalities.
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Fascinated by the "the dessert: a celery-eggplant tart." I can't can't imagine it somehow. I can accept a celery-eggplant tart as a savoury item but not a dessert.

Can you give a more detailed description, Pat?

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Fascinated by the "the dessert: a celery-eggplant tart." I can't can't imagine it somehow. I can accept a celery-eggplant tart as a savoury item but not a dessert.

Can you give a more detailed description, Pat?

It's propbably fine with custard. :D

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There are quite a number of vegetables that can be used to make various desserts. Sorbets, for instance: I have tried tomato sorbet, red bell-pepper sorbet, and others that I don't remember (beets? carrots?). I think the trick is to make the right balance between the acidity and sweetness.

jean-Luc does not give his recipes away, so I don't know the details. But I do remember that it also had a good balance of sweet and sourness. (No custard, definitely.)

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There are quite a number of vegetables that can be used to make various desserts. Sorbets, for instance: I have tried tomato sorbet, red bell-pepper sorbet, and others that I don't remember (beets? carrots?). I think the trick is to make the right balance between the acidity and sweetness.

jean-Luc does not give his recipes away, so I don't know the details. But I do remember that it also had a good balance of sweet and sourness. (No custard, definitely.)

CUSTARD WITH ANYTING. :D :D :D

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By not taking dairy products, I am free from the "delights" of custard.

I am still, though, having difficulty in imagining what the eggplant and celery dessert would taste like. I can just about get persuaded about celery (relating it to angelica) but egg plant, sorry, it just doesn't fit.

BTW An excellent way of serving egg plant (aubergine) is to slice it about 1cm thick, dip in flour -> beaten egg -> rolled oats (or breadcrumbs or semolina) and fry in a neutral flavoured oil. The coating stops the vegetable absorbing loads of oil (which it is prone to do) and the result is superb all soft and melting with a crispy crust. Serve with a spicy (chilli) tomato sauce.

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By not taking dairy products, I am free from the "delights" of custard.

I am still, though, having difficulty in imagining what the eggplant and celery dessert would taste like. I can just about get persuaded about celery (relating it to angelica) but egg plant, sorry, it just doesn't fit.

BTW An excellent way of serving egg plant (aubergine) is to slice it about 1cm thick, dip in flour -> beaten egg -> rolled oats (or breadcrumbs or semolina) and fry in a neutral flavoured oil. The coating stops the vegetable absorbing loads of oil (which it is prone to do) and the result is superb all soft and melting with a crispy crust. Serve with a spicy (chilli) tomato sauce.

Sounds good. :D

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