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Dining Diaries XXVIII


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Kushiage is not one of the famous Japanese dishes, nor is it very popular in the Kanto area. Originating from Kansai, these skewered, breaded, then deep-fried morsels nevertheless make a very interesting meal – giving a new taste with practically every bite. Kushinobo used to be located in Hiroo, where we went for many years every few weeks, until it suddenly disappeared. And now we have found it again – rejuvenated in the bustling Roppongi Hills complex. Although all food is deep-fried, the first thing we notice when entering is that there is not the slightest whiff of oil in the air. Upon being seated – pairs at the bar counter, larger groups on tables, we are immediately served a jar of fresh vegetable sticks. We order our first drinks, and at the same time the food course, which should always be omakase (chef’s selection). It’s also now we can make any dislikes known, and the chefs will spare you individually from these. While waiting for the drinks and the first foods, some preparations are in order. In the sectioned dish in front of us we pour tonkatsu sauce, ponzu, mustard, ketchup, and mixed ground salt and sesame seeds. Then the first items arrive – piping hot from the deep-fryer: prawns with shiso leaves, beef meat, rolled crab meat. We dip the prawns into ponzu, beef into sauce, and drip some lemon juice over the crab. The feast goes on – asparagus, mushrooms, shellfish, pork, potato cube rolled in bacon, salmon, quail eggs, ginkgo nuts, lotus roots – it will not end until you say stop! It’s hard to believe that these small items can actually make you full, but it does, and satisfyingly so. We found that the dry rosé wines on offer (¥5,250) match this kind of food well, but there are a number of reds and whites (from ¥3,600), as well as beer, sake, and shochu available.

Roppongi Hills, West Walk 5th Floor • Tel. 03-5771-0094 • www.kushinobo.jp

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